Amoi on Pedals: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan (June 30 - July 12, 2019) : Day 3 - Bishkek, Chunkhurchak Gorge, Suusamyr Valley

In high elevation, one needs to elevate oneself!

11 bikes mounted on this 4WD

At My Hotel

Our 7 seater 4WD

Our 15 seater minibus, with 3 bikes on the rear carrier.

View from the bus near the natural spring water

50 m down this path to the natural spring

The Elixir of Life! Note the bottles of water collected by many locals

Locals enjoying a break by the natural spring

Rolling out

Snow capped mountains in the background

Minutes into the ride, we met a few families having picnic lunches by the grassy knolls

Beautiful route

Snap photos when you need a rest!

Wild Wild West

Crystal clear streams

Wild lavender

Note the downhill zipline

Note the beautiful snow capped mountains

Descent after ski resort

Picnic lunch

Day 3 : Dropping like flies !!!

After dramatic flight delays on Air Astana's Kuala Lumpur to Almaty and Bangkok to Almaty sectors resulting in a rescheduled flight time for KC109 on the Almaty to Bishkek route, we were finally ready for our Tian Shan ride. A big applaud was given to Christoph and Angkana when they walked into the breakfast hall, donned in fresh clothing, a happy ending to their ordeal when their baggage did not follow through on their connecting flights. The fresh clothings meant we no longer need to endure their garments which was beginning to turn skanky after more than 48 hours in hot, summery weather. Even our fellow Singaporean friends seemed rested, following their long 20 hours flight on China Southern which included 2 transits, one of which was a layover at Urumqi with super tight airport security.

Tian Shan translated to mean Celestial Mountains or Heavenly Mountains, is a large system of mountain range in Central Asia. As one of the Seven Mountain Systems in the world, Tian Shan Mountains stretches through four countries; mainly China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan with a length of 2,500 kilometers from east to west.

Just before rolling out

Zoe and VT arriving later...

Beginning our ride somewhere in the vicinity of Kashka Suu, 35 km from Bishkek, our exhilarating ride was somewhat plagued with problems. Our vehicle transfer from My Hotel, Bishkek to roll out point, requiring 13 bikes to be mounted on to 2 vehicles took longer than expected. Midway into our bus journey, York Fuan had left her half digested breakfast by a tree at the side of the road!!! With Zoe arriving in the latter vehicle, escorted by VT to test out a right sized bike, we only managed to roll out at noon, after a lengthy dismount and bike checks.

So the ride began or so we thought...

Right after the first climb

First pit stop

The first slope got us all panting but still spirited. The second slope got us all huffing, yet determined. When the third climb came, many called defeat, pushing their bikes up the slope! Even Joyce uttered in dismay that she will not be able to go on if the climbs continue!

However, Joyce was spared the walk of shame as even more went on foot; this time due to ravaged roads. Not only had we been riding on loose gravels but with the onslaught of deep ruts; the roadies in us, were in despair.

First puke stop for York Fuan

In the midst of all the panting, York Fuan was in a worse situation! She was leaving vomit trails all over the route! The gunk was beginning to clear from murky food discharge to clear fluid as we made our ascent. When there was nothing more to throw out, her body decided even gastric juice was good enough to mark her territorial claims!

She finally threw in the towel when her bowels began to move. Up in the mountains, close to Chunkurchak Gorge but not close enough, there was a cry for tissues! Only Claudine had a measly piece which was quickly whisked off downhill for her! All well meaning friends pointed to a tree for cover and soundly advised her to bring along a water bottle.

Paled and beaten, our dear friend trudged to the support car, resigning herself to the back seat, for the rest of the day. As for Alex, his heroics did not stop at delivering tissues and pushing 2 bikes up the slopes but went on to several more rescue missions....

Not far from where Alan fell...

The first to fall was Alan who was seen pedaling fast downhill and overtaking Claudine. When Claudine almost skidded, hopping to a standstill on one leg, Alan drifted on loose gravels, sliding sideways and keeping his horizontal pose!

Later, somewhere in the beautiful valleys of canola flowers, Sue got her wheels stuck in the rut. The cut on her calf was later described by Mr Lim to look like a "bullet hole". Thankfully, by the time first aid was administered, a protruding yellow piece of flesh or fat had blocked the wound and reduced the bleeding

Resuming our ride half an hour later, VT flipped over the handlebar, scrapping his chin and toe! He was pinned down by his bike, unable to move until Zoe came to his rescue.

Despite all Claudine's earlier cries for everyone to be careful, and Alex's remarks on the dangerous zone, Anna fell as well. Dramatically theatrical, she screamed and screamed right before everyone, thudding to the ground, and laying motionless. We were still holding our breaths when Alex went to her as she lay grounded, moving very little for a long time before finally sitting up. Thankfully, all she had was a free botox jab to her lower lip, a bruise which could be covered with lipstick and made prettier!

Finally descended to the lower grounds of Chunkurchak Gorge, we were mesmerised by the village proper, the farm animals and the horses that were allowed to roam free. Before long, our climb recommenced, this time, an easy gradual climb up to the alpine ski resort. All along the way, chair lifts hung motionless, closed for the summer!

Chairlifts on the way up the ski resort

Chairlift arm and conveyor belt after the ski resort

Bent on getting to the peak, Christoph had led Gerard, Claudine and Lim up to the ski resort. Everyone that followed assumed he had been instructed by Alex who was waiting for the others to regroup. When the peak was scaled and the downhill commenced, Claudine scanned the route ahead but saw no one other than Gerard. Unsure, she back tracked with instructions for the rest to stay put. Thankfully, she did not have to go far before the rest of the team arrived with Christoph who had been waiting all along at the peak!!!

After the ski resort, the downhills commenced. Claudine's hands ached from the constant brakings.

Travelling on a busier route, filled with large and sharp gravels,we were choking in dusts every time a car passes by. 9 km later, a smooth tarmac road greeted us bringing relief and joy for not far away was our lunch or should it be called tea at 5 pm???

Orthodox church in the vicinity of Bishkek

Our transfer to Susamyr Valley was a trying journey. We had to make our way back to Bishkek in the hot summer evening; skimming past Koy Tash and Kok Jar.

Exiting Bishkek via Den Xiaopeng avenue, we travelled along its long and dusty road, made worse by after work congestions and strong winds which stirred up even more dusts! Hence the stop at Globus Sokuluk was a big welcome to stretch our legs and remain sane, not to mention the high from the beer for some others!

We began to despair when dusks fell and there was no end to our journey. Praises to technology for we found out from the other vehicle that Sue had had a minor surgery and the promise of dinner before midnight.

Turning left at Kalininskoye, we left behind the dusty route of M39. Temperatures cooled on what appeared to be vast vacant land with scattered housing. A little further down, the road ran parallel to a dried up river bed where excavations works were on going despite the dark.

Somewhere near The Final bus stop at Sosnovka, just before the climb to Too Ashu pass began, we stopped by a local supermarket to wait for dinner to be delivered. It was almost 10 pm when we finally made contact with Sue, Dima, Chinggis and Dan.

The rest of the journey to Suus Lodge was a twilight zone journey. With 2 roast chickens and several camca shared amongst the 19 of us, we were neither filled nor hungry. Definitely tired, we half nodded through the treacherous pass; one that went through a long tunnel with roads so bad, we were rocked sideways; a bumper to bumper downhill crawl amongst heavy vehicles; a clear sky filled with a constellation of stars.

Arriving at Suus Lodge at 1 am, it was freezing cold. Shivering, we went through the ordeal of washing up before resigning to our rooms; some more plush with ensuite bathrooms and many without locks or latches. No complaints for we were faring much better than Team Dima who had to find a comfortable spot at the main hall!

Total distance travelled : 290 km

Total ride distance : 25 km
Total ride achieved : 25 km
Ride Route : 100 % dirt and gravel
Elevation : + 700 m, - 1600 m

Places of interest :
Bishkek : 700 m
Chunkurchak Gorge : 2500 m
Susamyr Valley : 2200 m
Too Ashu Pass : 3125 m

Photo courtesy :

All the fabulous participants of Tian Shan, Realising Dreams Team - Alan, Anna, Angkana, Christoph, Joyce, Lim, John, Kok Teng, Sue, York Fuan, VT, Gerard, Zoe, Dima

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Suus Lodge, Suusamyr Valley