Sufferfest Mae Hong Son (24 Nov to 11 Dec 2025) : Day 14 - Around Chiang Mai

 

It was so good to catch up with Peter Yoong over a few days in Chiang Mai. He was on his Stage 4 World Tour from Japan, back to Malaysia. This should be his Day 223 since his tour began from Tokyo. 

This photo was taken outside Royal Peninsula Hotel in the morning.

Breakfast at Nai To Congee Shop was superb @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/5yV1EQB5Vys5gdp36

Cosy shop with retro deco

They have a good collection of television, mostly from the 1980's?

One for the memory

Chiang Mai Gate

One of the many ancient stupas or chedi around Chiang Mai

Wat Chedi Luang was originally built by King Saen Muang Ma in the 14th century to house his father's ashes

View from the right

The view from the back. Note there are no steps to the Golden Buddha. It could have weathered off through time.

View from the left. Note some of the elephant statues had fallen off

Carriages at Wat Chedi Luang. We wonder if it can be pulled by a Brompton?

The moat outside the city walls; near Buak Had Public Park

Buak Had Public Park @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/pTGZJxvQGawRBqPZ9

The park was a popular place. Besides the usual joggers, we spotted people doing yoga, sun tanning, napping etc. There's even a small open air gym in one corner of the park

Arriving in Umong Temple, built in 1297

We parked and locked our bikes within the temple grounds before starting our tour

Chedi or stupa above the tunnel

The temple is famous for the tunnel, supposedly built to keep a famous but deranged monk from wandering into the forests for days. Rumours has it that King Mangrai ordered the interior walls to be painted with scenes of the forests to keep him calm. You can spot the chedi in the photo.

You can explore the temple grounds for free but to enter the tunnel, a small fee of THB20 is required

There's a Buddha at the end of this tunnel

Some other intersection of the tunnel

Some sections of the tunnel has collapsed

Another entrance to the tunnel

Ruins

Wat Jedyod, built in the 15th century by the orders of King Tilokkarat. The name Jedyod aka 7 is derived from the 7 chedis or stupas on the main ubosot 

The outer walls are decorated with 70 Theawada figures in different postures

The viharn with the 7 chedis on top

The largest chedi in this temple ground houses the ashes of King Tilokkarat. It was built in 1487. 

One of the 2 chedis that is in ruins

Ratchawong Lane 3 Alley @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/XeGu6QRqLoeYvY1T6

Another view of the canal

Chinatown @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/15As411ZehsWAYp1A

Tried the Michelin recommended yu tiau @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZA38N3Aa1haftYaQ6

Dinosaur shaped yu tiau @ THB20 per piece

There are other shapes to choose from but there's a distinct ammonia smell on the fried dough

4 years recommended by Michelin

Preserved heritage building at Ton Lam Yai Market

Rote Yiam Beef Noodle @ THB50. There was only about 5 thinly sliced beef and possible 4 tablespoons of noodles

Also 4 times recommended by Michelin

The owner and her trade @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/F4Z42SBd7qGbA65V8

Three Kings Monument

Lanna Folklife Centre

Mana's Best Mango Sticky Rice for tea time @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/djwXCdxyXirY7EQYA

They are really the best in Chiang Mai. The owner actually taste every single mango before serving them

They also have durian sticky rice which was even better!

After a few rounds of sticky rice, we returned to our hotel for an afternoon nap before hitting the streets again for dinner! Here we are at Cowboy Hat Lady's stall near Chang Phueak Market

She serves delicious Pork Trotter Rice with innards

Look at how beautiful she is!

Sufferfest Mae Hong Son (24 Nov to 11 Dec 2025) : Day 13 - Around Chiang Rai and back to Chiang Mai

At Moom Mai Restaurant for brunch with KH Wong and Muay before we head for Chiang Rai bus station to catch our bus back to Chiang Mai. Muay is the supervisor at the restaurant @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZvfqgLLCKxfYzzpt9

On San Khok Chang Rd with the bicycle shop to our left @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/HBP9WDfjmjkLW7BY7

We finally get to take a photo with the famous Chiang Rai clocktower!

KH gave us a treat at his family's favourite breakfast place. As we were parking our bikes, a lady came in motorcycle and Claudine immediately recognized her! It was the first time we met Muay in person though she has helped us numerous times in bookings and payments. In fact, without Muay, the trip would not have turned out so smoothly! 

Typical Thai breakfasts served in a pan

Authentic old coffee shop operated by 2 old ladies @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/yjHYFmib1UxznPoR8

This is how the coffee shop looks like

Opposite is Si Biao Panich Bakery & Breakfast @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/DxwzQHz11swsAfkf7

Streetview from our breakfasts place

Photo credit : Google streetview

Funnily, the building on the right has been on sale since June 2024!

Uttarakit Rd @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/e4YFXtyEhy62pzdR8

The green roofed building is the Overbrook Hospital

Wat Phra Kaew 

This temple now houses a replica of the Emerald Buddha. The original piece, found in this temple after a lightning struck an old Chedi in 1434 is now sitting in the Emerald Buddha Temple in Bangkok's Grand Palace.

Several Buddha figurines housed in the main ubosot. The largest image in the center is named Phra Jao Lan Thong and is believed to be 700 years old

Hongluang Saengkaew Museum, pays homage to the temple and its history. Located within the temple grounds, it houses Lanna artifacts

Bells and chimes

More bells

Not sure about the significance of this hollow wood

Behind the main ubosot houses the Emerald Buddha aka Jade Buddha

A replica of the original Emerald Buddha now sits in Wat Phra Kaew. 

The original Emerald Buddha was initially found hidden in a chedi that fell to the ground after a lightning strike in 1434. The Buddha was subsequently moved to Laos in 1552 during the times when the Kingdoms of Lanna and Lan Sang merged. Later, in 1779, the Siamese invaded Laos and the Buddha was seized and taken to Wat Arun where it stayed for 5 years before finally moving to its current home in the Grand Palace.

Mae Fah Luang Bridge @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/x62bFqTg5m6wb1P59

Kok River

On Route 1207, the white statue of Kuan Yin, Goddess of Mercy looked like a divine image floating in the sky @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/XKcwsdPtkYy1zYnw5

Wat Huay Plakang Hospital

It is a steep climb to the temple

Wat Huay Plakang

All the food and drinks sold in this complex are subsidised by the temple hence they come with lower price tags. You can also pay more as a donation or pay forward for the next customer to enjoy. 

Phop Chok Dhamma Chedi (9-story Chinese Lanna pagoda) You can climb up to the top of the pagoda for a nice view. Entrance is free

Prayer hall

Statue of Buddha inside the prayer hall

Dragon stairs leading to the prayer hall and another set of dragon stairs leading up to the statue of Kuan Yin

View from the prayer hall

In Thailand, Buddha statues are a common sight in most temples. At Wat Huay Plakang, the image of Goddess of Mercy is used to help believers relate to divinity instead of Buddha thus the temple is thought to come under Chinese and Vietnamese influences.

The statue is about 79 meters. Visitors can ascend the statue and look out through the eyes of Kuan Yin at the observation deck on the 25th floor. There's a stairway and a lift to use for this purpose. While the stairway access is free, the lift comes with a cheap THB40 fee. To get to the base of the statue, visitors can climb the dragon stairs or use the free buggy service. The buggy starts from the car park and stops at the base of the statue

To avoid traffic jams, the roads are designed one way in and one way out.

After our ride, we adjourned to Restaurant Moom Mai

Muay busy supervising the kitchen staff

The entire restaurant ground was beautifully decorated

Another amazingly good Khao Soi, our 2nd breakfast at 10 am

Thank you Muay and KH for hosting us

Bikes and bags in the trunk

KH decided to surprise us at the bus station! So another goodbye and wefie was called for before we boarded our 12 pm bus to Chiang Mai

As it was Mindy's and Claudine's birthday, we decided to go to for cakes and coffee at Chouquette @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/fVXXAHMvWptRqBzv6

Thank you Zoe for the birthday treat.

Tha Pae Gate @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/yWvD7oAbZoyGoMcB6

Tha Pae Road beautifully decorated for Christmas

Wat Mahavan's beautiful outer walls. At 6 pm, the sun was dipping below the horizon

Foreigners actually travel all the way to Thailand to practice Muay Thai!

Tha Pae Gate brimming with visitors

Catching the last lights at 6.20 pm

Dinner at Kat's Kitchen @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/rQfZUP5YW7g9rn9t6

This time, it was VT's turn to treat the ladies