Sunday 25 August 2019

Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan (June 30 - July 12, 2019) : Day 9 - Issyk-Kul Lake - Burana Tower - Bishkek

Beautiful morning at Kara Talaa village which received its first foreign visitors in 2018
Bikes gets a good wash everyday!
View of first family home
View of first family home
Breakfast spread 
Calves taking shelter from the sun. Note the snow capped mountains in the background
Typical hand washing basin in Kyrgyzstan
Waiting for our lunch can be painstakingly looooooooooong.....
Typical gateway design
Aquaduct
No wonder they were slooooooow, taking selfies all the time!
Beautiful countryside road, our first riding experience in 7 days!
Pitstop
Appreciation dinner


It was an early morning for VT and Claudine, thanks to solo trumpet player, Mr Lim! Worse than a novice, he could only hit 2 notes at best, going off tune most of the time. Adding on to the night symphony was his handphone which began beeping even before the rooster crows, no thanks to Whatsapp messages that flows in from early risers on the other side of the world.

Last night, separated from the harem by a mere 200 m, Claudine as queen of the upper class abode had invited Mr Lim and VT into her chambers, leaving her army in the other available room. Upper class abode in terms of a modern toilet, high speed internet with wifi sharing and modern large kitchen; all amenities arranged in accordance to the hierarchy of needs!

Given a choice to stay back or to play the roulette, the ladies and their Khan had chosen to stay back at the new inn with the yurt where we had dined and celebrated Kok Teng’s 16th birthday. Left to Chance, the latter party found themselves holding the trump card instead!

Driving back to Bishkek, we followed route A363 which runs along the perimeter of Issykul Lake. On the opposite side of the embankment, Balykchy appears highly populated with scenes of high rise buildings. On our side, Kara Talaa village only received its first foreign guests last year with farm animals out numbering the human population! Despite that, we could spot a few tourist lures like bus stops, benches by the lake and even a small park!





Disappointedly, we did not have a chance to don our bikinis and G-strings as prophesied by KT on his birthday yesterday. It was such a letdown when our bus steered away from the junction to Balykchy but hit the highway on A 365 instead. By that time, it was too late to request for Ian to turn the vehicle around.

Strawberries sold on the road near Burana Tower

Burana Tower, near Tomok

150 km later, we arrived at  Burana tower when the sun was directly above our heads. Our interests dissipated as quickly as the sweat on our backs when all we saw was a tiny tower standing on a vast vacant land. Built in the 9th century by the Karakhanids in the ancient city of Balasagun, this minaret was originally 45 m high. It was reduced to its current height of 25 m after significant damages from a number of eathquakes over the centuries.







Note the road we came down from
Picnic spot near the river

Our frustrations were allowed to brew further when we stopped for lunch at a good picnic spot near Karagai Bulak BUT no lunch! Dima had gone off to run errands with Chinggis, Dan and Sue, arriving very very late with 2 cold chicken, possibly leftovers from yesterday’s chaos and very little bread. Claudine had to contribute further with 2 canned chilli tuna brought from home!




As there was very little to eat, our lunch was over very quickly. Moving on, we drove a short distance to Toguz Bulak to begin our short 25 km ride to Koi Tash. Funnily, Dima had underestimated our road performance stating it may take us 2 to 2.5 hours. We proved him wrong, finishing within an hour with minutes to spare for ice creams which were sold at a “bullish trend”. Purchased at 25 som by VT, others had to pay 40 som for the same product! We later deduced he must have looked the part of a Kyrgyz, big and not having shaven for more than one week!

Returning to Bishkek, we showered and spruce up for our dinner at Arzu restaurant. We were in a celebratory mood ending our Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan Ride still in one piece! Dima generously paid for our dinners with a pre-set individual budget. We would have preferred to stay longer but it was only right to relief Team Dima off their duties, having been away from home for a week!

Total distance travelled : 245 km

Total ride distance : 50 km
Total ride achieved : 25 km
Ride Route : Tarmac
Elevation : + 500 m,  - 1200 m

Places of interest :
Burana Tower


Photo courtesy :
All the fabulous participants of Tian Shan, Realising Dreams Team - Alan, Anna, Angkana, Christoph, Joyce, Lim, John, Kok Teng, Sue, York Fuan, VT, Gerard, Zoe, Dima





Monday 12 August 2019

Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan (June 30 - July 12, 2019) : Day 8 : Kochkor Village, Alabash Valley, Issyk-Kul Lake

At Semiz-Bel Pass
Breakfast at Fatima Guesthouse, main building
At Fatima's
At Fatima's
After a short climb, we began an easy gradual downhill
Sue passing the farmhouse with Honda CRV


Relatively clear sky, until...
Taking cover from rain and hail


Dirt tracks
Stream crossings
Crazily vast jailoos (meadows)
Grasslands everywhere
Abundance of water
Regrouping
Sometimes it is better to pave your own way than to follow the deep tracks left by 4WD's
Kok Teng taking our photos after he answered the call of nature...
...Kok Teng taking our photo as we were moving out! Eeewww, dirty phone!!!
Lunch at 4.30 pm was a frugal meal of rice and vegetables because Ian could not find his way to our meeting point. He had 2 roast chicken with him!!! 
Beautiful 
End of ride, time to wash the cow dung off our wind breakers!
Surprise birthday party for Kok Teng! The cake was a courtesy from Dima



This morning, Dima had a lot of issues to address. Claudine was hounding him for the laundry she sent out close to midnight, yesterday. On top of that, the 4WD’s squeaking had to be dealt with before our onward journey. That explains why Sue and himself were bumped off to our bus last evening whilst the 3 younger Kyrgrz were left to attend to the car; arriving for dinner later than our 10 pm’s lateness. As there were not enough seats on the bus, Dima had to resort to the foldable camping stool by the aisle again!







Instead of returning to Fatima’s restaurant in the yurt camp, Fatima hosted us to breakfast at her guesthouse where we stayed the night. We were delightfully grateful when she opened the doors to her dining hall; a grand room with beautiful furnishings and crystal chandeliers!
No doubt both places, owned by her, served the best food in Kochkor but the ease of returning to our rooms to freshen up beats the short, few hundred meters distance to the yurt camp.





Our transfer to the mountains was relatively short this morning. Beginning with a refueling at the petrol station, we drove until the bus could go no further! This includes crossing a narrow rickety bridge that requires everyone to disembark as a “just in case” measure. Along the way we passed the little hamlets of Kara Suu, Kara Saz and Kara Kungoj.

Meanwhile, our bus had suffered enough in the bad terrain. A cover had dropped off from the bottom!!!

We had to wait quite some time for Dima to arrive. Understandably, with a scheduled check for the 4WD plus laundry, lunch supplies and even a cake to pick up, it took quite a while; long enough for us to discover the herb that emits the lovely fragrance in the mountains.

Beginning our ride past noon, we only had a short climb to make to reach a plateau. After that, we were rewarded with a sweeping view of green meadows as far as the eye can see. Faraway, the mountain range creates the decorative edging necessary to perfect a picture. Here and there scattered farmlands offer a change of scenery.

Farms
Old grave
A surprise to see a Honda CRV in such ragged places!

Stopping for a banana break not far from the farmhouse with the parked Honda CRV, we could see rain clouds coming our way. The weather changed very quickly and there was a sudden cold snap. Thankfully, Sue had an extra pair of rain wear for Zoe and gloves for Claudine. Suited up in our rain armors we charged ahead like brave warriors in our steel steeds.

While everyone threw their banana peels everywhere, Alex buried it under this rock
Zoe was tricked into seeing what is at the bottom
Snake!!!!
Harbouring hopes that the wind will blow the clouds right past us, it did not! Before long, it started to drizzle and then, the pelting began!! Tiny crystals of frozen water fell from the sky!!!

Hail and Sue's gloves

Luckily for us, there was a shed not far away where we could seek refuge. As everyone were riding for cover, Claudine was too excited on her first experience with hail. She stopped to pick the ice up!

While taking cover from rain and hail, we had tea and biscuits in this shed

We continued with our ride when the rain reduced to a light drizzle. Just as quickly as the rain hits us, the sky dried up.

Everyone getting off the trail...
...shortcut!
Happy Cheaters!

Our next attempt was a short climb to Semiz-Bel Pass. Beyond the pass, the climbs were all over! Waiting in store for us was a 40 km downhill glide, past wide meadows, grazing farm animals and watering holes.


Midway, we stopped for lunch by a river which again saw the threat of rain! Yet again, we were blessed with cool weather but no rain.

After lunch with rain clouds still looming
Claudine had thought we were regrouping, but we actually stopped because VT fell!
Tarasu Village
After this corner, we will finally regroup with Team Ian
Note the tiny rainbow!
River scene
After we regrouped with Team Ian, Alex, Christoph, Gerard and York Fuan insisted to continue the ride all the way to Kara Talaa village. It was only an additional 20 km but not as easy as before with some rattling over gravel roads.

We arrivedin Kara Talaa just as dusk was setting in. It was a night to rejoice as we threw a surprise birthday party for Kok Teng with a bashed up cake; a testimony of the wild and trying terrains of Kyrgyzstan!



Total distance travelled : 92 km

Total ride distance : 65 km
Total ride achieved : 45 km
Ride Route : 100 % dirt and gravel
Elevation : + 1200 m,  - 1600 m

Places of interest :
Kochkor village (1800 m)
Alabash Valley (2700m)
Issyk-Kul Lake (1650m)


Photo courtesy :
All the fabulous participants of Tian Shan, Realising Dreams Team - Alan, Anna, Angkana, Christoph, Joyce, Lim, John, Kok Teng, Sue, York Fuan, VT, Gerard, Zoe, Dima

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Kara Talaa Village

First home (The Harem)

The yurt is the dining area while the house comes with 3 rooms
The kitchen and shower stall
Hallway
Harem
Team Dima's
The Khan's
Proper bed for Khan and his queen
Shower stall with tank on top. Hot water is poured into the tank with the help of a ladder








Second Home (The Queen's abode)









Toilet for "peeing" only. For bigger business, please proceed to the outhouse toilet.