Saturday 9 February 2019

We Love Bali, Brompton World Travelers (22-25 November 2018) : Day 4 - Scootering around Bali

All ready for our ride to the rice terrace
Taking a coffee break
At Alas Harum, Tegallalang
Richard was all smiles after decades away from a motorcycle
Caught at the traffic lights
Fueling up with the help of a funnel and petrol stored in Absolute Vodka bottles.
Richard staying out of the heat while we refueled.
Caught by another red light
Lots of monuments in the city
Tony popping a bottle of tapai
Look ma, I made a huge mess!!!
Orchid farm
Beautiful ride along the countryside
Roads were well paved
Passing villages
Shops
Padi fields
Small towns
Alas Harum's breathtaking view 
Making our way back to Kuta
Many monuments in the city
Capt, readjusting his makeshift hand phone holder!
One more knot while we take a photo
Bali's motorcycle lanes
On a Sunday, the roads were not as congested
Roadworks which costed us a 3 hour journey from Ubud to Kuta yesterday
Pipes laying
Pertamina refueling before home


We did not have a good night’s sleep. After saying goodbye to Tommy last night, we had returned to roam the streets of Kuta. Turning our noses up to pubs with loud music and half drunk party goers, we found a street cart plying bakso and mie kuah. The few working girls from the nearby spa saved us from paying tourists’ prices when they dropped by for supper and even pointed out to us a coffee vendor by a street corner! No thanks… we prefer to sit on proper chairs with back rests; not tiny stools by five foot ways!!! Besides, the coffee served from a hot flask was too primitive to some coffee connoisseur amongst us.






On a quest for a sit down café, we soon bumped into 2 men crouching by a darkened site street. Taken by surprise, we over reacted by walking away hurriedly, only to realize they were only scavenging for food. With flashlights attached to a headband around their heads, they were going through garbage thrown away by nearby restaurants!!!

Funnily, we found our sit down café on the same street with Sun Hotel! Enjoying each other’s company, the café’s horrible non-alcoholic drinks were soon forgotten but never the loud drunks who were screaming their lungs out as midnight approaches.

Calling it a night as Cinderella do, we were rather thankful Tony and Richard made it back in one piece. No, their scooter did not turn into a pumpkin midway through the ride!

Coming back to not to sleeping well…. many of us could not sleep well for many reasons. The coffee consumed at the Ikan Bakar place or the shared laughter could have contributed to our sleeplessness. For Richard however, it was the indecisiveness of riding solo in the morning; his second motorcycle ride in decades!!!

Our ride to Tegallalang's rice terrace started late. Richard had to wait for his rented bike which came slightly later than promised. When the bike was finally delivered, our over eager friend revved the bike, hurtling it forward and causing panic to both Tony and the rental company.





While all this was taking place, VT and Claudine explored a bit of Bali. They found a breakfast place near the market but this time, without the local girls, their bowl of bakso costs slightly more! Try complaining and the shopkeeper will tell you she pays rent while the street vendor has no overhead costs!

The ride to the rice terrace was an exhilarating one. Off peak hours, traffic was manageable. We passed many babi guling stalls, some with a whole pig, this early in the day. Durians and mangoes were in season.





Looking for a coffee break midway, we were advised to go down the road as our first stop only served assorted coffee in sashays. Grateful, we found ourselves a nice stop a few kilometers down the road. A proper shop serving nasi padang, we only ordered coffee from the smiling lady and her curious son. Instead she allowed us to use her wares to eat pecel and mangoes bought from a shop a few doors away.

Continuing on with our journey, the sceneries started to peak. Leaving behind townships, we passed padi fields, all green and golden set against blue skies.


At one point, we made a wrong turn at a junction. However, there was only praise for Tony’s amazing stewardship as it is not easy to ride a bike, read a map and even manage small talks with his pillion.


Not long after the hiccup, we came upon an orchid farm. Soon, the roads became familiar. We climbed the same steep slope that many had failed the day before. Naturally, it was a breeze on a motorized scooter!


Then, almost like a homecoming, we made the same sharp turn. Right before us, was Sthala but we had to carry on as the rice fields were waiting.

Not far from Sthala stood a small village with a few rows of shops, all hoping to score from the tourist industry. There, we made a short stop for durians and were clearly ripped off by the trader! Another local on a motorcycle tried to prey on us as well. Striking a conversation with Tony and Richard, he invited us to a nearby kopi luwak farm where he allegedly works. We followed him good naturedly, but when he made a turn, we sped off pretending not to see him at all!!!

We could feel the weather changing. Initially burning hot in Kuta and Jimabaran, the air started to cool as we made our way up the mountains. Thinking it was cooler at higher altitude, our joy soon turned to horror when the rain clouds caught up with us.




Thankfully, we arrived at Alas Harum, Tegallalang in the nick of time! As it was beginning to rain, we were each handed a brightly coloured umbrella before our appointed host took us on a brief tour of coffee roasting in a mock set up.


As kopi luwak is heavily promoted here, several caged civet cats were put up on display as a gimmick. They were actually quite cute and furry from far but stank of urine and faeces when near! Generally nocturnal in nature, we found most of them in deep stupor except for a suicidal feline which was stomping back and forth in its small enclosure!

Everything about the place was charming and beautiful despite the rain. We were brought to one of the many double storied verandahs in the complex for coffee tasting. Disappointingly, kopi luwak is NOT FREE but they made it up with a complimentary tray of assorted coffee and tea.

Sipping coffee by the verandah which comes with a wide open deck, we could see the rice terrace and running stream below. A few giant swings offer adventure seekers an elevated view for a fee. A glass bottomed viewing deck and hanging pods of gigantic bird’s nest made it to many Instagram accounts.

We stayed longer than expected hoping to sit out the rain. Tony’s rain app showed the whole place surrounded by rain clouds. However, his interpretation did not quite work out…the rain did not stop in 20 minutes!!!

Bracing the wet weather, we returned to the car park for our bikes. Then, panic ensued when Richard could not start his bike!!! Fixed with an immobilizer, he could not turn the switch. The grooves were worn out!

Thankfully, Tony’s quick thinking saved the day. All he needed was a small piece of tissue to give traction and we were soon on our way again!

We made it back to Kuta after a late lunch. As there was ample time, managed an early dinner at the same ayam penyet shop before playing chaperone to Anna who wanted to swim a few laps. A good thing, we were there by the poolside, for the few drunks who tried dunking each other in the pool would have loved to dunk her as well.

When we finally parted ways with Tony and Richard, we knew it will not be forever. Au revoir, till we meet again for Bali had helped us seal friendships for life!



Motorcycle rental – IDR 70,000 per 24 hours
Bensin or Petrol in blue and yellow shades, stored in Absolute Vodka bottles  - IDR 5000.
Pertamina -  IDR5000 per litre
Bakso on the street – Foreigners pay IDR 15,000, locals pay IDR 10,000 to which price variation is justified by the sizes...not sure if this is true!
Bakso in a shop – IDR25,000
Mango – IDR10,000 per kilo

Monday 4 February 2019

We Love Bali, Brompton World Travelers (22-25 November 2018) : Day 3 - Ubud back to Kuta

Ori Bali Diners
Before the shopping began...saying our goodbyes to those leaving early
After the shopping spree with Richard and Tony sporting their makeshift headgears!
Photo bombed and finger "lickin" good!
Bali Guling Men Agus near Tanah Lot comes with a view of paddy fields
Water logged in Bali's narrow streets


This morning is more relaxed. We enjoyed another round of buffet breakfast before boarding the bus for a shopping spree at Pasar Seni Guwang Sukawati. A short 15 minutes’ drive away, we arrived fresh and all energized for the haggling.


The art of haggling is almost like a poker game…you place your “bet” and pray hard the seller “folds”, agreeing to your price. Lots of mind games are involved and even as you walk away victorious with your prized win, you are never too sure if you had overpaid!!!

Given a whole hour to shop, there’s never enough time for the shopaholics. As for the non-shoppers, they patiently waited out the time at an eatery, preferring tea and bakso over shopping!


While the regular souvenir seekers soon boarded the bus, sporting an udeng each on their heads whilst ushering the rest to return; Andrew became the Best Shopper, beating the ladies to their lacy kebayas!!! Not only was he the last to board the bus; Big Guy returned with an udeng on his head, 2 wicker baskets (to be modified for Brompton’s front block) plus many other things!!!

A traditional head gear with a triangle crest at the front, there are many varying interpretations on the udeng’s symbolism. Some belief it is a symbol of Garuda, protecting our minds from evil influences whilst there has been laughable comments of a radio antenna connecting men to God. However, the best interpretation yet, suggests the kneeling of humans in accordance with the teachings of dharma.


Packing up for Kuta, we were sorted into 2 buses, in accordance to our hotel’s locations. As many of us had booked to stay at The Sun Hotel, we enjoyed the company of Rachel for an additional hour before dropping her off for her onwards journey, back to Jakarta. Thereafter, we suffered Bali’s famous traffic jam, made worse by road works.

Approaching the city, the bus was motionless at some points. This allowed the conductor to get off the bus, stroll to the nearby stall for snacks before returning to the “parked” vehicle. It did not move a single inch throughout this process!

It took us a whole 3 hours to get to our hotel despite the short 28 km distance. Arriving at the wrong location did not help either!

Adding more drama to our unfortunate situation, it began to drizzle as we were approaching our hotel! Let off on the main road, it started to pelt!! We had to make the rest of the way on foot as the lane leading to our hotel was too narrow for our bus!!!

Whilst Team Sun Hotel suffered on Bus No 2, the rest on Bus No 1, somehow enjoyed a shorter journey with enough time for a Balinese massage!!! But nobody would have guessed the distress that Siew Yung had to go through!!! Skipping the shopping spree in the morning, she had left for the airport with Desmond, Iskandar, Hui Ming and Pang Wen; whilst Tommy had tagged along, hitching an early ride to the city. Not only did she break into a cold sweat caused by the traffic jam, but when her bike following in the box car did not arrive on time, she could have fainted had Iskandar not offered to carry it for her in his later flight!

Even the fruit seller had to take refuge from the rain
At Bakso Solo
Nice trader offered us a free hand to her knives and bowls
Prepared fresh
Huge meatballs or flour balls?
5 mangoes for RM10
The kitchen opens out to the garage of a hotel which explains where we normally see the customers are coming from!
Narrow corridor 
Doorway to the kitchen


Coming back to Team Sun Hotel, arriving in the rain, way past lunch hour, they had to overcome another challenge. Thank goodness, the hotel had enough umbrellas for everyone hence sustenance was found according to everyone’s palate for who can complain in Kuta except for price!!!





That evening, the group was split up according to everyone’s fancies. Some went to Hard Rock Café, some went dancing whilst some had an exciting motorcycle ride into the sunset, dining over Babi Guling Men Agus with a second dinner of grilled fish at Warung Ayu, Ikan Bakar ala Jimbaran!!!


Photo Credit :
Sin Tai Lim


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The Sun and Spa Legian Bali