Saturday 3 February 2018

Sydney (25-30 March 2017) : Day 3 : Watson Bay and Bondi Beach

Bondi Beach
Rose Bay
Rose Bay
View of Sydney Harbour Bridge from Kambala school
Street view near Kambala school
Macquarie Lighthouse
Coastal Cliff Walk leads to Signal Hill, Macquarie Lighthouse and Marine Rescue Radio Base
Old South Head Road with view of Marine Rescue Radio Base
Gap Bluff
Bondi Beach
Bondi Beach Promenade

This morning we had our eyes pried open when we did an adventure run down Darlinghurst Rd. Looking for breakfast, we found a few cheap breakfast deals along the seemingly red light district. By daylight, the activities had all quietened down except for an obvious junkie in shorts, so short, it was revealing half her wrinkly buns. Our old crone was hoarding a public phone booth possibly running through all the contacts in her phone book. She was there throughout our time spent at breakfast!

Sitting down in a Chinese owned cafe just next to Dury House a backpackers accommodation, we observed the garbage truck parked opposite to us. In Autumn's cool weather, it did not emit any smell at all. Neither did the 3 garbage collectors on the table opposite. 

It was also worrisome to see a young woman with disheveled hair stepping out from the backpackers. She disappeared up the street and when she returned, she asked for light from 2 middle eastern contractors at work. One of the men passed her the lighter with no exchange of small talks. 

Puffy Eyes then sat at the bottom stair by the five foot way puffing away at her cigarette. Engrossed with her handphone, a few of her more energetic roomies raced past her with morning greetings. 



After sending VT off to work, Claudine began her new adventure. Instead of the usual right turn on Kings Cross Rd, she ventured left this morning. It was an immediate climb but a short one before a long downward slide all the way to Bayswater Rd. 

Rushcutter Bay Park was serenely quiet on a Monday morning. Beyond the trees was Cruising Yacht Club.



Continuing on, the road eventually connected with New South Head Rd. So far, the terrain had been hilly. Cruising down a slope near Bay St, Claudine heard a thud then realized her water bottle had fallen off the monkii cage. Thankfully, it rolled down to the side of the road with just a few scratches but it did stun a few drivers.






Before long, Rose Bay came into sight. The flat straight road with proper bike paths called for a slow ride along the scenic bay. With a golf course on the right and Lyne park, fully equipped with a wharf and cafes on the left; it was tempting to stop but she just couldn't! She had just gone 15 minutes into the ride!!!

St Mary's Magdalene, Rose Bay
Steep road on New South Head Rd
Kambala school, Rose Bay
Kincoppal Rose Bay school

Leaving the bay, the climb commenced all over again. At the top of a hill, a school was in session. The high vantage point gave an unobstructed view of Sydney Harbour Bridge.

It was also here that Claudine started noticing a tourer with a trailer. They will be passing each other many times throughout this route.



At Johnston's Lookout, Claudine's parked bike took a crash while she was taking a photo. The fall tore the foam on the handlebar!






Pushing on to Old South Head Rd, Macquarie Lighthouse is difficult to ignore! Looming at 26 meters in height, this frequently photographed lighthouse, built in 1883, is in fact a replica of the old one from 1818. The first and longest serving lighthouse in Australia, it is still operational until today.



Following the coastal pathway which saw a few strollers, she came across the Marine Rescue Radio Base. It looked homely with deck chairs and laundry flapping in the backyard. 



Signal Hill Battery, built in 1892-3 was a grey, formidable coastal defense fortification. Only the upper complex was accessible although the underground levels are said to hold a maze of rooms and corridors that includes a mess room, elevator shaft and gunpowder magazines.


View of Gap Park's walkway, just off Old South Head Rd
Memorial to Lt G J Grieve @ Gap Park walkway, just off Old South Head Rd

The coastal path soon connects to Gap Park's walkways that ran along the rocky cliffs. Bringing a bike has its limitations as some areas were only accessible on foot. 


Old South Head Rd with view of Gap Bluff

Steep downhill towards Watson Bay

Heavy hearted, Claudine had to turn back to Old Head South Road. Heading down a steep hill, she had to press hard on the brakes. Passing St Peter's Anglican Church, she finally reached Watson Bay, stopping by Watson Bay's Tea Gardens which overlooks the beach. 


Watson Bay

Watson Bay
View from Greenpoint Reserve, Watson Bay


Taking the sandy beach path, she crossed the sandy patch and got back onto tarred road. Following Cove St and Pacific St which passed by local housing, she climbed all the way to Green Point Reserve. Hindered by footpaths and steps only, she had no choice but to leave after taking a few photos.



This time, she went in search of Hornby Lighthouse but was surprised the road led to an army camp! Uncertain and not giving up, she tried going via Cliff St. This led to the Gap Bluff instead. The lookout gave a beautiful and unobstructed view of Macquarie Lighthouse and beyond. Down below, the huge waves that beats relentlessly at the walls of the cliffs were jaw dropping and terrifying at the same time. 


View from military mess's car park @ Gap Bluff
View from military mess's car park @ Gap Bluff

There were a lot of tracks similar to the ones at Gap Park. Burdened by a bicycle, Claudine had to abandon the walk. Instead, she scouted the abandoned homes and what could be a military mess at Gap Bluff.



Back at the entrance to the military base, another cyclist on a rented bike was looking for the lighthouse as well. Both ladies proceeded to ask a soldier on his way back to base. They received disappointing news when told only the footpath leads to it!

Reluctant to leave her bike unguarded for Hornby, Claudine left for Bondi Beach instead. Her initial plans was to get there by Military Road but made a wrong turn. This led her back to Old South Head Rd. Hoping to reconnect back with Military Rd, she turned to Liverpool St only to see that the road ends with a footpath up a slope which separated both ends of the street.

Remapping her route, she took Murriverie Rd. However, Shuk Cafe changed her course once again. A steep climb ahead, a growling stomach, a blazing sun all coerced her to make the stop. 


Cargo bike at Shuk Cafe

The neighbourhood cafe was a good stop which allowed her to catch up on social media, refuel and reroute. Serving Israeli-Mediterranean breads and cuisines, the place sees many after school children during lunch hour. The waitress was kind and considerate, bringing cold water first and foremost to a cyclist on scorching weather.



Claudine never made it to Military Rd but Bondi Beach came a lot faster via Mitchell St. Cruising downhill, Campbell Parade was packed and so was the beach. While the sea was blue and the sky was blue; the beach was a vast area of beige sand in little mounds and depressions. Besides the sand, more organic beige mounds in different sizes of twin peaks tease the eyes!!!

Not game for a lazy afternoon on the beach, Claudine decided to head back. Climbing up Bondi Rd, her little 16 inch wheels overtook a cute young man on a roadie. She took the chance to flirt with him, asking if the road leads to the city center!

Bondi Rd seemingly turns right towards the end of its run. Claudine missed this turn but went ahead to Waverly St. This brought her to Westfield Bondi Junction. The detour got her to Grafton St and Grosvenor St before ending up on Edgecliff Rd. 

Edgecliff was aptly named as the road was bumpy with lots of potholes. It ended at the intersection with Ocean St. Meanwhile, the cross junction to New South Head Rd was just a few meters away. Needing to get there, Claudine did what she had to do! She carried her bike over the center road barrier at Ocean St then turned left to head back home.

Getting back was still tricky. At Cross City Tunnel, Claudine stared at google map and the street for the longest time. She had no data to map her biking route. There were so many intricate routes to choose from! Just then, a cyclist was riding past her and she just had to stop him for directions. He took her on a pedestrian path, then Craigend St and finally William St. All this while they were climbing but he waited patiently for her. Saying their goodbyes, she found out he is an off duty soldier serving at Watsons Bay!!!

Evening was setting in by the time she got back to the hotel. After a good wash, she returned to Plateia, the Greek restaurant with VT. When dinner was done, they walked to Holiday Inn which was just a few hundred meters away, looking for an alternative cheaper accommodation. 

As they were in Sydney on business cum leisure, their stay at Larmont has been an out of pocket expenditure so far. In the meantime, while they were booked at Intercontinental for 29th March, they had nowhere to stay on the 28th March as the hotel was fully booked. In fact, most hotels were fully booked and Larmont's rate had gone up 2.5 times!!! Fred's indecisiveness had put them in a quandary! Unless they suck up to Larmont's rate or move to a budget hotel, they may end up homeless!












Friday 2 February 2018

Sydney (25-30 March 2017) : Day 2 - Kings Cross to Manly

Riding on Sydney Harbour Bridge
Sunday markets
Cadman's Cottage
Sailor's Home
Nurses walk
Luna Park on the right, view from Sydney Harbour Bridge
View from Sydney Harbour Bridge
Milson Points street view
Milson Points street view
Close to St Leonard's Park
Close to St Leonard's Park
Memorial
Anzac Day Memorial
Cammeray
Follow the bridge at Cammeray to avoid the busy interchange
Coming towards the bridge @The Spit, favourite cycling route
Coming towards the bridge @The Spit, favourite cycling route
The Spit
Manly, near the Wharf
Manly
Manly
Manly
Manly Beach
Got bike, will surf!
North end of Manly Beach
The rockier south end of Manly Beach
The rockier south end of Manly Beach
The rockier south end of Manly Beach
View of another ferry
Fort Denison, view from the ferry
Sydney, view from the ferry
Front view of Sydney Opera House from the ferry
Evening ride on Sydney Harbour Bridge
Trains travel on the bridge...
...besides cars...
...and pedestrians
Evening view from the bridge
Darling Harbour
Darling Harbour
Darling Harbour
Darling Harbour
Darling Harbour





The gloomy weather from yesterday was gone by the time we stepped out onto Kings Cross Rd. Instead, we were rewarded with beautiful sunny weather and blue skies. Our spirits lifted, we made our way to Bayswater Rd, which was just behind our hotel, lined with a handful of nice eateries.

View from our public bench
View from our public bench

Plataiea, the Greek restaurant from last night, was closed and so was the Italian, Mexican, Japanese and fried chicken joint. Picking up a cappuccino from Fresca, the 24 hour food joint and pies from Kings Cross Bakery, we suddenly realized it was impossible to ride with a coffee in hand! Too embarrassed to go back into Fresca to use their diner chairs, we found ourselves a public bench to sit on a few meters away. It was strange, but the bench was turned inwards, so eating sloppily was fine but looking at the people go about their day on a lazy Sunday morning was a wee bit difficult!


After breakfast, we got back onto Kings Cross Rd. Across the busy intersection to Victoria St was the Fire Department! We finally understood the few faint sirens we have been subjected to the night before.

William St bike lane

Back on William St again, we soon arrived at the CBD. Wanting to turn onto George St, we were horrified it was closed for road works. Detouring to the next parallel street, we found Giant Bike Shop which was already opened for business at 8.30 am!

Scouring the streets, we found nurses walk tucked away behind some row of shops. A narrow alleyway from George St's busy roadworks leads right into the lane where the first batch of nurses were housed. 







As this was adjacent to The Rocks, we were soon lured into the busy Sunday Market. The Royal Carribean's Voyager of the Seas was docked by the harbour and right opposite this collosal, luxury cruise liner was the humble Cadmans Cottage. Built in 1816, this second oldest surviving residential building in Sydney was once very close to the shore until Circular Quay's land reclamation took place!





Eventually, we found our way to Sydney Harbour Bridge....the tough way! Using the old stone stairs by Cadmans Cottage, we returned to George St. Making our way to the end, we found out the narrow alleys by a row of equally narrow shop lots leads to a set of stairs. These stairs led to Gloucester Walk.


Walking along, we were puzzled by the strange, basic foundations of houses that had since crumbled.  Due to the tough topography, the houses  back then were poorly built and wasted away over the years. 

Cumberland St
Close to the entrance to Sydney Harbour Bridge

At the end of The Walk, another flight of stairs connects to Cumberland St. On foot, the stairs are a breeze. On bicycles, it is best to find your way to Essex Street then turn right into Cumberland St where Shangri La Hotel is located. 

Lane dedicated to bikes only

Pedestrians and cyclists enjoy separate access on Sydney Harbour Bridge. Rams were built in the center of the stairs for cyclists to push their bikes up. The high vantage point gave us a spectacular view of the Harbour, Milsons Point, Luna Park and its surrounding geography.

Bridge Stairs near Milsons Point Station
Milsons Point Station

Getting off on Milsons Point, the journey ahead was filled with climbs. At St Leonard's Park, flowers were laid to commemorate Anzac Day, a day in remembrance of those who served and died. 

After this bridge, killer climbs awaits!
View of the bridge after some nasty climbs

At The Spit, we cruised down a spectacular hill that overlooks a marina. Huge, hillside villas with sea views decked the slopes. Crossing the bridge down below, our fun ends at that point. Killer climbs await us all the way to Manly Beach!!!


Arriving first at the Esplanade Park where the wharf was, we made our way through The Corso. We bought fruits from Coles, were handed out free yoghurt on the streets and finally decided on a fish and chips lunch. Another Sunday Market was taking place to which we browsed through briefly before making our way to the beach. 





It was fun riding from one end to another end of the beach. Where the road ends, we followed a footpath through more delis and cafes. Some young teens were seen climbing onto the roof of a beach house while a natural pool siphoning water from sea was at another corner. 


Pushing our bikes on foot right up to the end of the Cape, we got off the beach area, circled the public car park and started riding again. We passed beach front homes and homes built on hill slopes. Following Bower Street until a dead end, we went through the driveway of someone's home! 





























Returning to the wharf, we took the ferry back to Circular Quay. At AUD8.70, it offered a close up view of Fort Denison, a different angle of Sydney Opera House and of course, saved us some leg power!

Observatory Hill Park
Observatory Hill Park

Back on land again, we could not resist one return journey on the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Finishing our run, we took a quick peek of Observatory Hill Park before proceeding to Darling Harbour. Another marina with al fresco dining, we were more attracted to Pyrmont Bridge, opened in 1902 to replace the old wooden one. A swing bridge that allowed passage of ships along Cockle Bay, it is now only accessible to pedestrians and bicycles only.

Pyrmont Bridge
Pyrmont Bridge
We were getting familiar with Sydney's CBD. Getting back was a breeze. A creature of habit, we returned to Plateia for another round of their yummy Souvlaki!