Sunday 17 November 2019

Onion Power, Kerala Backwaters (26 Oct to 2 Nov, 2019) : Day 2 - Nedumbassery to Kumarakom

One of the friendliest people in the world!!! Photographed here with shelled clam sellers near the Thanneermukkom bund jetty or popularly referred to as The Three Bridges by locals. 
First morning view from Alfa Inn
Along Kariyad - Airport - Mattoor Rd (NH544)
Along Kariyad - Airport - Mattoor Rd
Mangalapuzha Bridge and Periyar river
Aluva train station
Typical local buses at Aluva. 
Having our second breakfast at Aluva while waiting for a phone shop to open. This was a second fail case before a third fail case 20 m down the road later. 
Friendly shop owners who readily smile for our camera. Another shop owner 20 m down the road allowed Claudine to use the toilet even though she was not a diner
Predominantly Christians, there are many churches in Kochi
Getting lost while looking for the Pipeline road. This is behind St Mary's High School ground
Aryaas chain of restaurants serves vegetarian cuisines
NH66 with inner road
Met Justin at Decathlon Thykoodam
Kochi Kumbalam toll plaza where toll collector waves you on with a smile, toll free!
Thanneermukkom flood gates are opened during the monsoon to allow flood waters to pass
A small opening in the middle to allow traffic in Lake Vembanad
Illikkalam Lakeside Resort
Illikkalam Lakeside Resort
Illikkalam Lakeside Resort
Illikkalam Lakeside Resort




Sunrise was earlier in Kerala. We slept less than 5 hours in Alfa Inn, having arrived past midnight to a dark lobby and a young scruffy young man sleeping on a wooden bench with a flat pillow.

Onion Utappam
Thosai @ 50 rupees or RM3 is quite a standard price everywhere.
Tea in fresh cow's milk, double boiled @ 20 rupees or RM1.20. Some places offer them at 10 rupees but in small whisky shots.
Palace food court

Palace food court was serving take-aways at 1.30 am this morning and continued to do so when we walked in for breakfast at their adjoining restaurant.

As India was once colonised by the British, most people can speak English, be it good or bad. We were advised by Palace's concierge to get our simcards from the airport or from the shop down the street. Unfortunately, we took the wrong move, choosing to go to the shop nearby as we knew upon our arrival that the airport does not offer the telco we wanted.

We will soon realize that getting a simcard in Kerala requires a local sponsor with a national ID and not every citizen holds an ID. It seems like the only place a foreigner can get a simcard without a sponsor is from the airport.

Pipeline Road at it's worst!
Pipeline Road in general
Pipeline Road passes by some farms and factories
We were a bit adventurous and decided to try out the Pipeline Road when we spotted a very straight road that ran for miles. It wasn't exactly remote with dwellings along the way. We received a few curious smiles from the locals but Suresh on a Royal Enfield motorcycle smiled to Claudine before speeding ahead to ride alongside VT; chatting for a brief moment and shaking his hand before leaving us!

At the junction to Seaport Airport Road, we decided to leave Pipeline Road for good. There was just so much rattling we could take and it was slowing us down. Turning right, we followed this for a short distance before returning to NH544.





It seems the MRT train from Aluva runs above NH544. We followed this busy road with its MRT line, passing by Cochin University, Pathadipalam and Erdapally stations.


At Erdapally station, we turned left to join NH66 aka Salem Kochi Highway. Stopping for lunch at Aryaas, we were really touched by the owner's gesture to share his hot spot with us. Unfortunately, his package does not allow sharing but he pointed us to the nearest phone shop at Palarivattom. It was our fifth and final fail for the day!

Our first sight of Chinese fishing nets
It was a Sunday and the streets were quiet
Beautiful waterways along the way
St Mary's Syro Malabar Forane Church, Pallipuram

Not far after Kochi-Kumbalam toll plaza, we turned left at Shri Karthyayani temple. Here on, we were travelling on quiet village roads all the way to Thanneermukkom Bund.

Somewhere along this route, a family of four stopped their motorcycle to take a photo of us. We obliged by taking selfies with them. Disappointedly, we forgot to use our camera!

A curious local who had requested to try Peanut at The Bund
Thanneermukkom Bund was constructed in 1974 to prevent tidal action and salt water intrusion in the Kuttanad low lands around Lake Vembanad. It is the largest mud regulator in India separating the into 2 parts; one with brackish water perennially and another with fresh water fed by the rivers draining into the lake. Meant to help the farmers in the area, The Bund had also created ecological problems in the area; primarily, the rampant propagation of the Water Hyacinth and the breeding of fish.

Houseboats in Kumarakom

After The Bund, we still had some legwork in store for us. The sun was setting and we were in a hurry to arrive at Illikkalam Lakeside Cottages before dark. This time, the route was decked with golden paddy fields waiting for harvest. 

Turning into Amankari road, the scenes began to change. The road was narrower, decked with potholes. Narrow canals weaved its way between rows of village homes. Through all the disparities, Park Regis and major resort homes loomed in the middle, all with lakefronts.



Just like yesterday, we had to trod on muddy potholes to get to our stay for the night. Dusk was approaching and mosquitoes were quick to welcome us just as our friendly receptionist was going through the paperwork. However, we were really lucky for just as we were walking to our lakeside cottage, the sun rewarded us with a last minute spotlight just before it's final descent into the horizon.


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Illikalam Lakeside Cottages, Kumarakom





All toilets in budget hotels comes with pail and ladle for washing. Toilet paper has to be requested. 
Meals can be pre-ordered allowing an hour's head ups



Honey bees

Saturday 16 November 2019

Onion Power, Kerala Backwaters (26 Oct to 2 Nov, 2019) : Day 1 - Arrival in Kochi

Wanting to keep the bike box for our return trip, this is how we rode 1.1 km to our airport hotel. No heel strike.
E-visa counters
There were many such elephant statues in the airport. Note the water dispenser on the far right with taps for hot, cold and room temperature. Paper cups are available.
Immaculately clean and beautiful airport
JB - KL - Kochi, return on MAS for RM865



Unofficial rumours started flowing down the grapevine on September 30, 2019. The company is planning to take a one week break for Deepavali. In a frantic plan to escape the country, Claudine started her search for cheap airfares. The strategy was simple. Any destinations, ex Malaysia or ex Singapore at affordable fares. She found 2....Kochi and Hong Kong!!!

If anyone has been keeping abreast with the times, 2019 is NOT a year to visit Hong Kong! Naturally, Kochi was the pick of the day especially after confirmation with several Indian friends that Kerala does not celebrate Deepavali in a big way.

It was a whirlwind plan. There was Yu Jin and Mary's wedding to attend on October 19 and this trip to plan. In the end, nobody really sucked up to the trip except for Claudine and VT. Many have premonitions on India from hygiene to gender discriminations.

However, they adored India especially the food and the people despite their first landing in dusty Delhi and Agra during the heatwaves of 2003. Back then, the hotel's concierge had constantly reminded them to drink lots of water as the temperature outside could hit 50 degrees celcius anytime! Yet, their short visit from 4 to 7 June 2003 did not deter them. On the contrary, they were so enamoured with the country they had booked flight tickets to Kochi in 2010 but the trip only materialized 9 years later!


The Times, archive from June 4 2003 :
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/chandigarh/Hisar-sizzles-at-47-2-five-die-in-region/articleshow/5224.cms


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Alfa Inn, Nedumbaserry

Hotels with private bath and shower does not always comes with hot water despite the hot and cold taps!!!