Saturday, 29 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 4 - Gerik to Betong

The biggest post box in the world, built before WW II was meant as a communication post for the townspeople. It comes with a radio at the top and a mail slot below.
Riding out of Gerik. Note the mists hovering low along the mountain range
Uncle Meng leading his pack
Second pit stop, just before the turn off to Route 1157
The best ride in Thailand!!!
Barbecue Steamboat
Barbecue Steamboat
Barbecue Steamboat
Betong Mongkollit Tunnel
Inside the beautifully decorated tunnel
Sad that 2 brothers are separated by a border!



This morning, we had breakfast at Medan Takong, located a few hundred meters away from our hotel. The noodle soup with Yong tau foo and the apam were pretty good. As we were dining, a new conspiracy was going on, oblivious to some others who were busy with the day's coordination. When we were about to roll out, the secret unveiled itself!


Rene and Suan who were let in on Philip and Mr Lim's decision to leave their luggage at the hotel decided to do the same, Their usual backups, Suzie and Bernie had left for Betong early in the morning, in the pick up truck. Naturally, a request for a 10 minutes break to put away their things extended to more and with the sun coming up, the mists cleared as well!

Uncle Meng with the Singapore girls. Note the mists covered hills in the background

Riding out of Gerik, we were all following Uncle Meng obediently. On a recumbent, he was leading well on flats but when faced with a climb and on granny gears, we found ourselves clumped together. At one point, young Christopher was following so closely behind VT, his front wheel was only 2 inches apart from VT's back wheel. He was having fun on a balancing act but was reprimanded by the adults. Meanwhile, Jac and Philip used the pretext of taking everyone's photos. They raced ahead!

During our first regrouping stop at Dinna Cafe, 18 km down the road, Rene had a sudden urge to use the toilet. The roadside shop was closed and the surrounding area deserted. We had to look away while Suan and her scouted for the perfect spot to answer the call of nature!!!

5 km later, right before the turn off to Route 1157, we made another stop. This stop saw Uncle Meng munching on his Gardenia cream bun and filling his lungs with nicotine, both formulas necessary for the impending dragon backs....and to think the last 23 km had not been one as well!!!





The playing field did change on Route 1157. While the last 23 km had been one of gradual climbs, the next 21 km saw steeper climbs, some of which saw some of us pushing our bikes on foot instead! Naturally, with the right gearings and leg muscles, one could get to the top of every peak. The KHS and Uncle Meng's recumbent equipped with granny cranks went up each slopes with little issues. The Bromptons with 6 gears could do the same but the devil starts to sweet talk you when the going gets tough. As for Philip on 2 geared Brompton, the devil was slowly possessing him!

Even Susanna had quipped, "The last 26 km is the best one. Enjoy and have fun" when Claudine had texted her on their google location just before the turn off to Route 1157. Irene and herself had left the group and driven the same route to Pengkalan Hulu last night to wait for them.

Meanwhile, Bernie had chipped in that even his car was emitting black smoke, so imagine us on bikes! Understanding our suffer fest, he had even offered to meet us at the border to which Rene gleefully declared everyone wants to suffer...well almost everyone!

Note the time and date from the camera. 
Note the time of Jac's text
Note the time when Philip finally sent his location.


While most of us were enjoying the challenge, Philip was suffering. His single water bottle had almost run dry when we reached Felda Nenering. He insisted on replenishing his water supply, taking Christopher with him into the housing settlement. We waited for him for more than 1 hour !!! By which time, Rene's distribution of soft bread had vanquised and Uncle Meng had gone through his second cigarette.

Frustrated that numerous calls to him left unanswered, Claudine made the decision to leave. After all Route 1157 is only one straight road ahead and every junction either leads back to the same route or a dead end.

It was obvious that some others were reluctant to move on. Jac for one, quickly sent a text to Philip advising him to just follow the route. Claudine was confident he will be fine as he had often led groups from Singapore to Johor, hence was well versed on maps. In fact he was reading into gradients as well, always telling us about our next climb!!!

Thankfully, we were on a slope and gliding downhill gave us a high vantage point of the view below. Claudine was so relieved when she spotted Christopher coming out of the junction at the other entrance to Felda Nenering!!! By the time she reached the junction, Philip was just coming out in smiles oblivious to the worry he had caused! He was eager to tell us he had found water just a few hundred meters from the junction, unaware that right at the junction was a convenience stall. His confidence turned to confusions and frustrations when Claudine told him off.

There were more climbs ahead. While everyone took it in good stride, Philip became possessed! While we waited to regroup under the roof of a newly constructed house, he arrived telling Jac, "Jac, you are so bad, you take my photos when I am pushing my bike!" His tone sounded like good humour so Claudine did not think much about it initially. But Jac was defensive, wanting to show him the photos she has taken. It was actually one to which he was riding his bike and not pushing but Philip refused to see the photos. He took off on his own!

This time it was Jac's turn to feel frustrated and vindicated. While everyone preferred to keep quiet, Mr Lim and Claudine tried to show their support by consoling her.

At the junction to Route 77's Jalan Betong, Irene and Susanna were cheering for every single rider as they glide to a stop at Kedai Makan Ayer Panas. It was scorching hot at 1 pm. As it was lunch time, all of us were busily placing our food orders when another outburst began.

Philip suddenly shouted, "Jac, I demand that you delete all my photos. I have not given you the right to take any of my photos!"

Jac who was not the submissive type, shouted back. Again, she wanted to show him the photos she has taken. The shouting continued to a full, face to face confrontation. The fury displayed put Christopher to tears.

Meanwhile, as the shouting continued, Uncle Meng and Mr Lim tried to pacify Philip, asking him to cool down. Realizing there will be no end to whole situation, Claudine decided to put her foot down. She asked everyone to keep quiet. This made Philip take off on his own for the second time!!! We were in shock!

As we ate our lousy lunch and discussed over the matter, Jac did the noble thing asking us to mediate and bring Philip back for the sake of the group. Mr Lim was assigned to talk to him.

Philip's demand for Jac to delete every single photo of him from her camera was met but not an apology. Claudine could not agree with an apology when she had done nothing wrong.
It turned out that while we sweated over a lousy lunch, Philip had found himself a KFC outlet not far away. He returned to the waiting group when Claudine was about to ride out to usher him back. This gave everyone hope that all will be fine.


Approaching the Bukit Berapit CIQ
Bukit Berapit CIQ
Queuing to get our passports stamped
Immigration counter
Outside the Duty Free shop

At the Bukit Berapit CIQ, we made a stop at the duty free for beers and chocolates. Friendly lorry drivers cautioned us that a possible "fee" may be imposed at the Thai border. Not surprised with these dubious charges at small town border crossings, we clamoured to break down our ringgits, buying beers and chocolates.


On no man's land, approaching Thai border
The group with a piece of history...
...When Malaysia was still known as Malaya!!!
Betong Custom House
Immigration center


Arriving later at the Betong Customs House, we noticed a few manned desks outside the building offering immigration forms. RM2 is charged if the officer fills up the papers for you. However, if you ask sweetly, they will hand them to you all the same.

We took turns to enter the CIQ building to get our passports stamped as someone needs to take care of the bikes parked outside. Susanna and Christopher voluntarily handed their passports and RM2 to the immigration officer. This was taken without a flick of an eye. Claudine chose to play ignorance and her passport was stamped all the same!


After the Betong Customs House, we enjoyed an exhilarating 7 km downhill ride all the way to the Bell Tower. Beside the Bell Tower, everyone were waiting by the biggest post box in the world, including Uncle Meng's brother! Some of us though, arrived late, as Christopher had a tyre puncture right after the CIQ.














Later, when we checked into Garden House Hotel, again we found Uncle Meng's brother waiting at the reception! Such was the warmth hospitality of the Meng brothers and Thai people!!!


We were really grateful when Uncle Meng's brother paid for our tea at Garden House. We were further overwhelmed when he picked us up in his truck, offering a fun cattle ride to dinner and the night markets!



Friendly traders
Joyce and Jac trying out local eats
Crispy pancakes
Larvae
Grasshoppers
The concert venue with tight security outside
Uncle Meng's sister in law trying out her luck in a local game


It seems, ushering in the new year is a big thing in Betong. Besides the night markets, the Thai Army and Police Force even performed nightly concerts for free at the local stadium.

Photo courtesy :

Rene


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Garden House Hotel

The google pin for Garden House Hotel as at May 3, 2020 is incorrect. The actual location is within walking distance to River Inn Resort and Happy Garden Cafe and Homestay !!!






Friday, 28 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 3 - Kuala Kangsar to Gerik

The Grand Old Lady was all wet!
Waiting out the rain at Persatuan Kiung Chow
Somewhere...on the move!
Note VT is always checking his phone to ensure we are on the right route
Tasik Raban's Recreation Center
Here's one for us...
...and one to Suzie!
Lunch stop in Lenggong after Tasik Raban
Lunch stop in Lenggong after Tasik Raban
Lunch stop in Lenggong after Tasik Raban
Even when you spot the signange, the town is still some legwork away!!!


The sky was bleak when we got down to retrieve our bikes from the shop lot adjacent to our hotel this morning. Possibly owned by the same proprietor, it was used as a store and upon our request had allowed us to park our bikes there overnight. Thankfully, the pre-arrangements had been made earlier, for the rooms were painfully small despite artistically decorated.

By the time, we had set up our bikes, the first drops of rain had made contact. This delayed our push out as we had to pull out our rain gears to put them on. Thankfully, our objective to get to our breakfast venue before the actual downpour was a success. We only faced a light drizzle.



Returning to Persatuan Kiung Chow for their beef noodles which were sold out as early as 11.30 am yesterday, it started to pour heavily. The stall owner was surprised to see his first customers of the day as early as 6.20 am and immediately apologized as they were only setting up. But we were just happy to wait as we couldn't go anywhere else with the wet weather.

Disappointingly, when the noodles were finally served, they were nothing to shout about. When we could not wait any longer, we decided to make a go despite the rain.

Back tracking our way on Route 1, we hardly rode more than 400 m when the rain turned into a downpour. Braving Sultan Abdul Jalil Shah Bridge, the rain pelted so hard on Claudine's cheeks it was actually painful. Every time she struggled to open her eyes, the rain drops will hit her eyeballs, causing her eyelids to shut in reaction.

She screamed for a halt. It was way too dangerous to ride!


Taking refuge at a row of food stalls beside the road, right after the bridge, another check in was made with Uncle Meng. We were all surprised it was only drizzling on his side!

When the downpour finally teetered off to manageable levels, were continued our ride. Initially on Route 1, we turned to Route A156 just as the sun began to shine! The wind had swept the clouds away and the change was felt immediately.

We picked up Uncle Meng in Karai and with him taking over the helm, led us to the grand old lady, Victoria Bridge ! Built in 1897 and commenced operations by 1900, the bridge is a single track truss bridge which traversed the Perak River. It remained in use until 2002 when a a concrete girder bridge was built to replace it. Ever since, the footbridge remained open to pedestrians and motorcycles.

Thanks to Suzie for taking our photo

Possibly the gatekeeper's lodging on the other side of the river
On the other side of the river
On the other side of the river


We spent a long time on Victoria Bridge. Long enough to see the rain clouds come in again. Thankfully, the rest of the journey was merely plagued with light drizzle and blessings of a cool temperate for it was a long 110 km journey!






Right after the bridge, we followed Route A11 for 8 km before taking refuge at Kak Tun Kuih Talam stall just as the clouds caught on with us once more! Most of the kuihs were sold out by then but the fresh roti canai and hot teh tarik were a treat on a wet day. Our timing were perfect as the rain stopped just as we finished breakfast. Asking permission to use the toilet, we were pointed towards the multi-purpose building on stilts across the road. The toilet was an outhouse structure,separate from the building. We were also grateful to the stall owner who called up some friends to check on the road conditions. Apparently, the road was not passable at Tasik Raban a few days ago due to floodings!


Waiting for Suan with a tyre puncture after the left turn into Sauk...


Waiting for Suan with a tyre puncture after the left turn into Sauk...

She was loaded into Suzie's car and brought to our meeting point for tube change.


We took Jalan Kampung Ngor instead of Route 76 for Tasik Raban. Stopping at Lenggong's for lunch, we were surprised the town has a high Chinese ethnicity. There were a lot of Chinese coffee shops to choose from.

Jalan Kampung Ngor
View of Tasik Raban and Route 76 running parallel to Jalan Kampung Ngor
The other side of the lake

After lunch, Claudine decided to browse the fresh market situated next to the bus stop for some fruits but most stalls were already packing up. Her hunt only proved successful just as we were rolling out. The shopkeeper on the main road was such a good salesman, he kept selling 2 bunches to her despite her insistence for 1. Acting ignorant but selling cheap, he came up triumphant. Thankfully, Suzie was just passing by and the bananas were loaded into her car.

At Hentian R&R Selat Pagar
At Shell's Kampung Lawin

Our next stop was 13 km later at Hentian R&R Selat Pagar; after a short struggle at "Bukit Penat" with 3% grade hill. Iced lime and 100 plus was just what we needed on a hot afternoon but the banana was to wait until our next stop at Shell's Kampung Lawin.


....almost to the peak!
All of us looking ahead at Uncle Meng who did not rest but sped off to the peak!
The pedestrian bridge to MRSM marks the peak!

Right after Sumpitan where "Bukit Penat" began, the gradient has been slowly increasing. It peaked at MRSM Gerik where Irene, Susanna, Christopher and Suzie were waiting to see our struggles.

After that, we were rewarded with more than 5 km downhill glide. Gerik came soon enough but by then, Suan had suffered an additional 2 punctures and was all ready to buy new "old" tyres at the local bike shop, the last foldable tyre which comes with a permanent crease at the fold!

That night, we were split into 2 accommodations. While most of us stayed at Sun Hotel, some others moved into Gerik Hotel at the other end of the block. Both were managed by the same owner. Meanwhile, we have adopted Christopher into our helm, taking him for dinner with us at Restoran Chau Y. Of course in Gerik, one must try their famous wild boar curry which we did without Uncle Meng who was snoring in his room and could not be woken despite numerous knocks on the door!


Photo credit :
Suzie

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Sun Hotel, Gerik