AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 4 - Gerik to Betong

The biggest post box in the world, built before WW II was meant as a communication post for the townspeople. It comes with a radio at the top and a mail slot below.

Riding out of Gerik. Note the mists hovering low along the mountain range

Uncle Meng leading his pack

Second pit stop, just before the turn off to Route 1157

The best ride in Thailand!!!

Barbecue Steamboat

Barbecue Steamboat

Barbecue Steamboat

Betong Mongkollit Tunnel

Inside the beautifully decorated tunnel

Sad that 2 brothers are separated by a border!

This morning, we had breakfast at Medan Takong, located a few hundred meters away from our hotel. The noodle soup with Yong tau foo and the apam were pretty good. As we were dining, a new conspiracy was going on, oblivious to some others who were busy with the day's coordination. When we were about to roll out, the secret unveiled itself!

Rene and Suan who were let in on Philip and Mr Lim's decision to leave their luggage at the hotel decided to do the same, Their usual backups, Suzie and Bernie had left for Betong early in the morning, in the pick up truck. Naturally, a request for a 10 minutes break to put away their things extended to more and with the sun coming up, the mists cleared as well!

Uncle Meng with the Singapore girls. Note the mists covered hills in the background

Riding out of Gerik, we were all following Uncle Meng obediently. On a recumbent, he was leading well on flats but when faced with a climb and on granny gears, we found ourselves clumped together. At one point, young Christopher was following so closely behind VT, his front wheel was only 2 inches apart from VT's back wheel. He was having fun on a balancing act but was reprimanded by the adults. Meanwhile, Jac and Philip used the pretext of taking everyone's photos. They raced ahead!

During our first regrouping stop at Dinna Cafe, 18 km down the road, Rene had a sudden urge to use the toilet. The roadside shop was closed and the surrounding area deserted. We had to look away while Suan and her scouted for the perfect spot to answer the call of nature!!!

5 km later, right before the turn off to Route 1157, we made another stop. This stop saw Uncle Meng munching on his Gardenia cream bun and filling his lungs with nicotine, both formulas necessary for the impending dragon backs....and to think the last 23 km had not been one as well!!!

The playing field did change on Route 1157. While the last 23 km had been one of gradual climbs, the next 21 km saw steeper climbs, some of which saw some of us pushing our bikes on foot instead! Naturally, with the right gearings and leg muscles, one could get to the top of every peak. The KHS and Uncle Meng's recumbent equipped with granny cranks went up each slopes with little issues. The Bromptons with 6 gears could do the same but the devil starts to sweet talk you when the going gets tough. As for Philip on 2 geared Brompton, the devil was slowly possessing him!

Even Susanna had quipped, "The last 26 km is the best one. Enjoy and have fun" when Claudine had texted her on their google location just before the turn off to Route 1157. Irene and herself had left the group and driven the same route to Pengkalan Hulu last night to wait for them.

Meanwhile, Bernie had chipped in that even his car was emitting black smoke, so imagine us on bikes! Understanding our suffer fest, he had even offered to meet us at the border to which Rene gleefully declared everyone wants to suffer...well almost everyone!

Note the time and date from the camera. 

Note the time of Jac's text

Note the time when Philip finally sent his location.

While most of us were enjoying the challenge, Philip was suffering. His single water bottle had almost run dry when we reached Felda Nenering. He insisted on replenishing his water supply, taking Christopher with him into the housing settlement. We waited for him for more than 1 hour !!! By which time, Rene's distribution of soft bread had vanquised and Uncle Meng had gone through his second cigarette.

Frustrated that numerous calls to him left unanswered, Claudine made the decision to leave. After all Route 1157 is only one straight road ahead and every junction either leads back to the same route or a dead end.

It was obvious that some others were reluctant to move on. Jac for one, quickly sent a text to Philip advising him to just follow the route. Claudine was confident he will be fine as he had often led groups from Singapore to Johor, hence was well versed on maps. In fact he was reading into gradients as well, always telling us about our next climb!!!

Thankfully, we were on a slope and gliding downhill gave us a high vantage point of the view below. Claudine was so relieved when she spotted Christopher coming out of the junction at the other entrance to Felda Nenering!!! By the time she reached the junction, Philip was just coming out in smiles oblivious to the worry he had caused! He was eager to tell us he had found water just a few hundred meters from the junction, unaware that right at the junction was a convenience stall. His confidence turned to confusions and frustrations when Claudine told him off.

There were more climbs ahead. While everyone took it in good stride, Philip became possessed! While we waited to regroup under the roof of a newly constructed house, he arrived telling Jac, "Jac, you are so bad, you take my photos when I am pushing my bike!" His tone sounded like good humour so Claudine did not think much about it initially. But Jac was defensive, wanting to show him the photos she has taken. It was actually one to which he was riding his bike and not pushing but Philip refused to see the photos. He took off on his own!

This time it was Jac's turn to feel frustrated and vindicated. While everyone preferred to keep quiet, Mr Lim and Claudine tried to show their support by consoling her.

At the junction to Route 77's Jalan Betong, Irene and Susanna were cheering for every single rider as they glide to a stop at Kedai Makan Ayer Panas. It was scorching hot at 1 pm. As it was lunch time, all of us were busily placing our food orders when another outburst began.

Philip suddenly shouted, "Jac, I demand that you delete all my photos. I have not given you the right to take any of my photos!"

Jac who was not the submissive type, shouted back. Again, she wanted to show him the photos she has taken. The shouting continued to a full, face to face confrontation. The fury displayed put Christopher to tears.

Meanwhile, as the shouting continued, Uncle Meng and Mr Lim tried to pacify Philip, asking him to cool down. Realizing there will be no end to whole situation, Claudine decided to put her foot down. She asked everyone to keep quiet. This made Philip take off on his own for the second time!!! We were in shock!

As we ate our lousy lunch and discussed over the matter, Jac did the noble thing asking us to mediate and bring Philip back for the sake of the group. Mr Lim was assigned to talk to him.

Philip's demand for Jac to delete every single photo of him from her camera was met but not an apology. Claudine could not agree with an apology when she had done nothing wrong.
It turned out that while we sweated over a lousy lunch, Philip had found himself a KFC outlet not far away. He returned to the waiting group when Claudine was about to ride out to usher him back. This gave everyone hope that all will be fine.

Approaching the Bukit Berapit CIQ

Bukit Berapit CIQ

Queuing to get our passports stamped

Immigration counter

Outside the Duty Free shop

At the Bukit Berapit CIQ, we made a stop at the duty free for beers and chocolates. Friendly lorry drivers cautioned us that a possible "fee" may be imposed at the Thai border. Not surprised with these dubious charges at small town border crossings, we clamoured to break down our ringgits, buying beers and chocolates.

On no man's land, approaching Thai border

The group with a piece of history...

...When Malaysia was still known as Malaya!!!

Betong Custom House

Immigration center

Arriving later at the Betong Customs House, we noticed a few manned desks outside the building offering immigration forms. RM2 is charged if the officer fills up the papers for you. However, if you ask sweetly, they will hand them to you all the same.

We took turns to enter the CIQ building to get our passports stamped as someone needs to take care of the bikes parked outside. Susanna and Christopher voluntarily handed their passports and RM2 to the immigration officer. This was taken without a flick of an eye. Claudine chose to play ignorance and her passport was stamped all the same!

After the Betong Customs House, we enjoyed an exhilarating 7 km downhill ride all the way to the Bell Tower. Beside the Bell Tower, everyone were waiting by the biggest post box in the world, including Uncle Meng's brother! Some of us though, arrived late, as Christopher had a tyre puncture right after the CIQ.

Later, when we checked into Garden House Hotel, again we found Uncle Meng's brother waiting at the reception! Such was the warmth hospitality of the Meng brothers and Thai people!!!


We were really grateful when Uncle Meng's brother paid for our tea at Garden House. We were further overwhelmed when he picked us up in his truck, offering a fun cattle ride to dinner and the night markets!

Friendly traders

Joyce and Jac trying out local eats

Crispy pancakes

Larvae

Grasshoppers

The concert venue with tight security outside

Uncle Meng's sister in law trying out her luck in a local game

It seems, ushering in the new year is a big thing in Betong. Besides the night markets, the Thai Army and Police Force even performed nightly concerts for free at the local stadium.

Photo courtesy :

Rene


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden House Hotel

The google pin for Garden House Hotel as at May 3, 2020 is incorrect. The actual location is within walking distance to River Inn Resort and Happy Garden Cafe and Homestay !!!