Sunday 30 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 6 - Betong to Gerik

Scorching hot at 11.30 am
The first encounter from the look out
Second encounter at the natural lookout
Long queue getting into Malaysia
Pengkalan Hulu


It was one of those mornings that Claudine regretted deeply. It was not pleasant to be drawn from her deep slumber and packed into their rented song thaew with 10 others like cattle transported to the market. The air was cold at 4 am, made colder by the moving truck which screamed through the winding country road at break neck speed.

The journey to Talay Mok Aiyerweng is actually quite far. It took us 50 minutes in zero traffic to get to the communications tower. Getting off the truck, Claudine was dazed by the crowd, flashing torch lights and noise from vehicle engines arriving with throngs of tourists. It was like a crazy market place except that it was still too early!

Following the crowd and the motorcycles that were ferrying people further uphill on dirt tracks for a fee, we arrived at the 2 tiered lookout that was still under construction. We were stumped as we could not even enter. There was absolutely no standing space inside and sunrise was still a good hour away! 

As we discussed further on our next move, a group abandoned their spot allowing us to enter. Edging our way to the best spot, more and more people left but just as many arrived. 

Soon Claudine abandoned her ideal spot as well as she wanted a space to sit and sleep. She found a spot behind the crowd, settled down and was lulled to sleep by the continuous mumblings. 

A sudden hush woke her up. Yes, mysteriously the buzzing stopped and was replaced by silence as everyone were awed by the beauty of nature. Claudine immediately forgot her morning regrets when she spotted the first ray of sun peeping through the sea of clouds. As if on morse code, the sun vanished, totally eclipsing the lands in darkness before making a second comeback. It was almost ethereal as if God was telling us something!


Sea of clouds, sea of people!
The lookout in the background
Communications tower
It was 30 December and a long weekend. Thai military were out by the throngs at tourist spots and public places. After all, this is Yala, notorious for politically motivated uprising. 


Thankfully, the crowd were respectful and everyone took turns to capture the magic before moving out for others at the lookout. As we made our way downhill, we found several other spots which offered the same beauty but in natural surroundings. The magic did not remain for long and with sun warming up the lands, the mists disappeared revealing a deep valley covered with trees.

Getting back to Betong took us twice as long because of the traffic snarl on the hillside road. The time spent on the song thaew allowed Claudine to negotiate with the driver for a 500 baht, one-way trip to Betong Custom House, saving them the crazy 7 km uphill ride.

Once back at Garden House Hotel, we collected our bikes and Mr Lim, who had decided to give the sea mists a miss before heading out for dimsum breakfast. By then, Philip, Bernie and Suzie were already in Gerik enjoying another breakfast at Medan Takong.


Our pick up arrived at 10 am as promised. It was the same truck and same driver but Claudine's vomit and spilt Thai Tea from the broken bottle were already cleaned up by then. We left without Susanna, Christopher, Irene and Mr Tan as they were on a different agenda to pick up Susanna's car from Pengakalan Hulu and head home from there.

After both countries' immigration, we headed straight into Pengakalan Hulu for lunch before embarking on Route 76, for Gerik. Heading out of town, we were immediately arrested by 3 climbs. The first climb went on for 1.8 km with 5 % grade hill. The second climb was equally long but with an easier 3% grade hill. Saving the best for last, we battled the 7% grade hill that went on for 1.64 km !

It could have been a vengeance of sorts or just a stroke of bad luck. Gliding downhill after a long climb, Suan must have let go of the brakes as pay back.

Then disaster struck! She swayed to the left and then to the right, unable to control her bike as a puncture caused her to wobble uncontrollably.

She CRASHED !!!

The rest of us that saw the accident scene were sick to the gut. A gang of touring superbikes stopped to offer assistance. They helped to form a barricade.

Thankfully, Suan was conscious all the time. She kept assuring us she was fine but her jersey was already red with blood, dripped down from her forehead. There was a deep cut near her eye, thank God it was save!

Rene and Joyce attending to Suan
The men attended to the bike
Nawawi stopped to offer his help. Jac who was ahead was summoned by the super bikers to return.

Ambulance rescue

The ambulance took 30 minutes to arrive. During our wait, many angels offered their help. Nawawi, stopped his Perodua Alza and offered to take Suan to the hospital. When the ambulance arrived just as he was clearing his seat, he did not flinch when asked if he could transport Suan's bike to Gerik. But he was spared his troubles when a lorry driver agreed to do the same.


As Rene rode the ambulance with Suan, Mr Lim was tasked with the safety of their bikes. He rode in the lorry to Gerik and was surprised the lorry driver had not accepted his tip. As for the rest of us, we rode in sombre mood all the way to Gerik with a pit stop for pisang goreng and ais limau.

Arriving in Gerik, we went to visit Suan. Again, she bravely assured us she was fine. Rene's and Suan's luggages were collected from Gerik Hotel and handed to Rene for safe keeping. That evening, they headed for Ipoh hospital for more treatments and from there on, back to Singapore.

As for the rest of us, we enjoyed a delicious Chu Char dinner at Medan Takong before heading out to The Store and Guardian for cardboard boxes. Returning back to our hotel, we prepared Rene and Suan's bikes and baggage that were required to be shipped back home.

It was nice to know that angels continue to offer their help. The hotel's receptionist gave us tape while a guest offered to take the things to Ipoh for us. The latter was not accepted as we were not sure how long Rene and Suan will be in Ipoh.








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